| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Jamie Bowe |
Posted - 14 Jun 2011 : 11:27:14 PM
Hey everyone, my VN has been going through LOTS of water & I take it around the block for only 5 minutes and my overflow tank is boiling, steams for about 5-10 minutes. I spoke to VNGRPA (Shane) about this, and he thinks its my thermostat, I just wanted to check if anyone else has had this problem before me and shane go to change the thermostat.
Thankyou. |
| 30 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Mechknight73 |
Posted - 04 Mar 2012 : 3:18:15 PM
Now just pay attention to servicing the cooling system. If ever the coolant looks like somebody peed in it, or starts to turn brown 1. check to see if it needs a cleanout and 2. change the coolant (done on average once a year for a daily driver) |
| EVL-087 |
Posted - 04 Mar 2012 : 10:22:36 AM
sorted my issue out :)
replaced header tank, and it was ok for a few weeks
played up like a bitch one night really bad
massive air build up, bubbling the header tank etc etc
replaced thermostat, and have had no pressure build up at all
(well apart from a tiny 1 second "pshhht" when i crack the cap off now) |
| Mechknight73 |
Posted - 22 Jan 2012 : 6:28:37 PM
It's usually the colour of the coolant that will give away whether it needs replacing. If it's not a healthy green (or in some cases red) and looks more like an entire footy team peed in your radiator, then get it done. While you're there, try and see if you can see inside the radiator through the top hose mount. If there's any rust and shale in the radiator, it will reduce the amount of "radiator volume" the engine can use. A good chemical flush will get rid of that.
When you fill it up, start by filling from the header tank until it's about where it should be in the tank when full. As it warms up, and the thermostat opens, it will do its "bong impersonation" for a while. Just keep slowly topping it up until that stops. If it doesn't stop, then you may have a leak in the manifold gasket |
| EVL-087 |
Posted - 22 Jan 2012 : 1:35:10 PM
yeah i got another header tank thats mint
it seems to be ok now, and all i have done was fill coolant, let it run from dead cold
for bout half hour with the cap off and topping up the coolant occasionally
maybe it was just some air in the system?
but yeah regardless, i am going to flush it all anyway, cos god knows how long since it was last done |
| Jamie Bowe |
Posted - 22 Jan 2012 : 08:49:32 AM
If that doesn't work get the overflow tank pressure tested, it could just be the cap letting out to much air like mine!
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| EVL-087 |
Posted - 17 Jan 2012 : 8:09:05 PM
hi all.... 1st post lol
i just got a vn calais, v6, 5spd (convert, not factory optioned) for the daily duties
and it has this same problem - so this saves a new thread :-D
temp gauge all good, shut it down and find its bubbling hard and spewing out the header tank
will flush the system and replace the thermostat on the weekend, and see how it goes from there
cheers |
| Mechknight73 |
Posted - 24 Nov 2011 : 6:20:51 PM
A few of the Holdens in my life have been fiercely loyal to me, and this is one of the top 3. It had the wisdom to weep coolant from the core plugs while being pressure tested. Seeing the core plugs, I'm glad the old bugger "spoke up." Obviously some of it was during the removal process, but these core plugs were going to blow at any minute, most likely with catastrophic consequences. My HZ did something similar:
The HQ-WB Holden crossmembers sag over time. Their wheel alignment is controlled by shims at the top of the crossmember. As they sag, there's less room for the shims, and they need to be put on a rack and stretched out again. I did this to my HZ, and unknown to me, the drag link was almost seized as well. It seized completely just as it was being driven onto the ramps for wheel alignment. Could have chosen any time to do it, but chose the exact moment when I had the money and the time to get it all done. It could have simply stranded me in the middle of nowhere, but chose not to. |
| VNGRPA |
Posted - 24 Nov 2011 : 5:07:02 PM
200 less then budgeted for good stuff mate, fingers crossed its all fixed and you can drive down the highway after spending that much on your engine the only thing left to do is sit down and have a cold one and think of all the good times you will have driving your beloved Vn |
| Mechknight73 |
Posted - 24 Nov 2011 : 3:59:02 PM
My mechanic has called me this afternoon, and the grand total is $1001, almost200 less than budgeted for. In the end, it was only the gaskets themselves, a few core plugs and some fittings that were shot. Being an S1, people are loathe to go near many of them because they're a bugger to get to. This has wiped out all known problems with the cooling system, so now I might be able to drive on the highway without having to look at my temp gauge every 20 seconds |
| Jamie Bowe |
Posted - 23 Nov 2011 : 5:15:39 PM
Best of luck mate, I really hope it goes well, I had my problem for 7 months and it killed me |
| Mechknight73 |
Posted - 23 Nov 2011 : 1:56:33 PM
Tomorrow, I will hopefully get my VN back. What started as a manifold repair has snowballed. The mechanic noted that the core plugs at the back of the engine are weeping, and that to get to them requires unbolting the exhaust manifolds and starter motor. I've told him to replace all the core plugs back there while he's got access to it. With the exception of the heater core and the hoses, I will have replaced approximately 80% of the cooling system. If it still overheats after this round, I'll be headbutting the nearest wall |
| Jamie Bowe |
Posted - 21 Nov 2011 : 8:36:00 PM
At the bottom of my cap it said 3? I'm not sure if that is the rating though. |
| kingbucktoo |
Posted - 21 Nov 2011 : 8:25:03 PM
Jamie What was the rating on the first pressure cap that caused all your trouble?? is it readable?? |
| Jamie Bowe |
Posted - 21 Nov 2011 : 4:53:38 PM
FINALLY FIXED!
The overflow cap had the wrong pressure rating (I tried 2 different ones so I thought it wasn't the problem)
But so far the pressure has been a lot more higher so I've had no problems.
Thanks for your help guys
-Jamie |
| Jamie Bowe |
Posted - 19 Nov 2011 : 6:08:36 PM
Heater core got blocked up because 'Apparently' it had a leak. Which I don't think it did at all. But yea I'm gonna take off the inlet manifold and take a look, and i'll let the mechanic change the pump & thermostat and check the radiator, I've had enough of my car lol. |
| VNGRPA |
Posted - 19 Nov 2011 : 4:21:43 PM
mate if it was my car i would
1-take off the inlet manifold and check to see if the coolant ports are blocked (running water through the motor would cause corrosion buildup) good time to give it clean while its off the motor
2-replace the water pump and thermostat (as they have corrosion around them) remember to use a good sealant when putting the water pump back on
3-get the radiator checked or just buy a new one
I'm shore you told me you had the heater core checked and its all good there's no leaks or anything, you have replaced your overflow bottle as your last one was cracked did it come with a new cap ?
also mate keeping in mind your car was built between 1988-1991 and all the parts are the ones that Holden put on 20odd years ago so it might not be a bad idea to buy new ones as we all know everything ages in time and running water instead of coolant will only speed up the process
|
| Jamie Bowe |
Posted - 19 Nov 2011 : 2:59:28 PM
I have it on a kill switch so its always running, hasn't made much of a difference. So I'm thinking its either the radiator or the water pump and i'm going to get the cooling place to do a reverse flush
|
| Mechknight73 |
Posted - 19 Nov 2011 : 12:38:02 PM
If your radiator is definitely clean, all the hoses are ok, the heater core has no problems, and the thermostat is good, there is only one other bug likely to be affecting it. If you're standing still, the temp steadily rises, correct? Does this change if you are moving? If it does, it means your engine fan isn't working. Three things to check: 1. test engine fan independently from the wiring harness. 2. check that the relays are in their correct position. There is a socket in the relay box under the bonnet marked "LP CHECK." if this does not have a metal relay in it, but one of the plastic relays surrounding it, your engine fan will not work. 3. if all of the above is ok, replace your fan sensor |
| Jamie Bowe |
Posted - 18 Nov 2011 : 11:11:38 PM
Took it to the radiator place today, they said there was a loose hose (must of been since i last bleeded it) so he thought it was the problem, i drove it home, still had the same problem. so i'm going back there tomorrow, i'm so sick of this happening! i've been to 4 places now |
| Jamie Bowe |
Posted - 12 Sep 2011 : 07:12:51 AM
Just around half way, it doesn't seem like the motor gets too hot.. |
| VNSVLE |
Posted - 11 Sep 2011 : 10:09:38 PM
What is the hottest it gets on the guage?? |
| Jamie Bowe |
Posted - 08 Sep 2011 : 2:29:22 PM
So I did your method VNSVLE, I left it sitting in idle for 5 mins (with the fan on) and it was really cold, so I thought to myself *yes it works!* Then I took it for a drive around the block for 5 minutes, then bam, my temp gauge crept right up to just under half way. I got home and opened my hood and all of it was really hot! I took off the hose from the overflow bottle from the radiator and the coolant had been going through there, so i know that the water is going through the system, something is making it hot!
I think i'm going to take it to a radiator place next week and see if they can figure out the problem, if not, i might just buy a new engine and gearbox and convert it to manual, I can't stand this problem any more.
If you have any more ideas please let me know, cheers..
Oh and when your cars running does your overflow bottle/radiator hoses always get real hot?
-Jamie |
| VNSVLE |
Posted - 02 Sep 2011 : 7:01:37 PM
@dryVN - The first picture does show a series 2 radiator on a series 1 car. Also the cap he has is correct for series one. Because the reservoir is up so high and is reasonably big the cap will just let excessive pressure out and then back in when cooling.
With the series 2 the same principle is applied only the cap is lower and will push coolant into the overflow and then suck it back into the system when cooling if it is funtioning correctly that is.
@Jamie Bowe - Proceedure as per manual(keep in mind this is when drained)
- Disconnect the water pump bypass hose from the front of the inlet manifold and the overflow hose from the radiator.
- Loosen the clamp retaining the thermostat cover outlet hose to the pipe at the rear of the engine and insert a blunt nose
screwdriver between the hose and pipe using care not to damage the hose
- Slowly fill the surge tank with the specified coolant until the coolant begins to flow from the bypass and radiator overflow
hose connections. Connect the hoses securely.
- Continue filling the surge tank until coolant flows from the hose where the screwdriver is installed. Remove the screwdriver
and tighten the clamp securely.
- Fill the surge tank with the specified coolant as previously described. Start and run the engine for 20 minutes to purge any
air that may be trapped in the cylinder heads. Check the coolant level. |
| Jamie Bowe |
Posted - 02 Sep 2011 : 3:06:36 PM
I'm gonna try replacing the water pump and thermostat, even if it doesnt work i wanted to get it out of the way |
| dryVN |
Posted - 02 Sep 2011 : 3:05:12 PM
Yeah my explanations are never good , must be caused by as mentioned water noise lol..,
never noticed water coming through the overflow cap in a S1 unless its going blow. Has nowhere for the coolant to be collected at that point.
S2 needs a pressure relief cap at the overflow as it has no radiator cap and an extra pressure return line to the radiator.
This VN setup would require a S1 Radiator and Cap. The pressure would vent through that before it goes to the Overflow. |
| Mechknight73 |
Posted - 02 Sep 2011 : 09:54:28 AM
That's a partial explanation. The radiator cap would be rated at the same pressure as the S1 header tank cap, so no real change there, except to have an "inspection point" to see if the cores are clogged with rust and shale. There is a valve in to top of the S1 header cap, which would have some pressure relief on it, otherwise the header tank would split in two if it got really hot.
With my heater on, and sometimes no, when I'm driving along there's a sound coming from the cooling system on my VN that is a little like someone tooting on a bong. when it does this the temp is normal, so it doesn't worry me. I'd say change your thermostat, and then grab the pulley bolted to your water pump. If you can rock it from side to side, the bearing in it is stuffed, and it has to be replaced for two reasons
1. sooner or later, the water pump will disintegrate
2. without the belt on the pulley, it upsets the crank angle sensor. This is a small sensor behind the bottom pulley that tells the computer when to fire the spark plugs. if it is playing up, you may not even be able to start the engine. If you do, you will get short stints before it stalls again. |
| dryVN |
Posted - 02 Sep 2011 : 01:32:34 AM
Hey just an idea from the photos on page 1 , i think you have a S2 radiator S1 overflow and S1.5 cap. With that setup there should be no pressure relief from the overflow cap itself and it's a rounder fully sealed cap. with the air bled out and water line sitting about half way full in overflow tank. |
| dryVN |
Posted - 02 Sep 2011 : 01:09:13 AM
I'll throw this in as two different radiators and overflow's. So many change's between S1 and S2 , one has a regular style cap on it , that make's it easy to bleed out the air pockets by topping up after a quick fang. some parts interchange while others don't. I'd check through the manual and check all the hoses and parts are right. Last thing to mention , is the heater hooked up and tap working properly. You are one patient bloke as i would have gone nut's after all this. |
| Jamie Bowe |
Posted - 01 Sep 2011 : 10:12:48 PM
The repair manual I have only covers series 2 because they have a bleed screw. And no it hasn't, me and Shane think its dicky but we haven't taken it apart yet, (I'm still learning with cars) So I'm waiting till he can come down and help me do the thermostat and water pump, I'd rather learn from a mate than just paying someone to do it is all. |
| VNSVLE |
Posted - 01 Sep 2011 : 7:48:14 PM
Check out the proceedure in the manual buddy and follow it is what I would recommend.
Also has the water pump been checked out??
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