| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| karessofdeath |
Posted - 01 Sep 2012 : 2:36:04 PM
Hi I was wondering if someone could help me my 89 vn executive auto wont start it winding just wont start there is an engine check light on and i dont know where to start or how to check if things need to be replaced all help will be muchly appreciated yeterday as i went to put in reverse and put a bit of throttle it cut out so i started again and she got all the way home and hasnt started since the car has been running rough lately any help would be appreciated as i need this car to get to work |
| 18 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| VNSVLE |
Posted - 16 Sep 2012 : 02:11:54 AM
@Mechknight - You must be thinking of the later VR-VS strut assembly. The VN-VP stub axle is part of the strut assembly and cannot be seperated where as the later models can be. These bolts also give you slight camber adjustment.
Also the later model does not have a removable strut insert like the VN does.
So unfortunately buddy the whole assembly has to come out. Make sure you mark the way the strut top bearing plate comes out as there are 3 ways it can go back in.
You will also need a set of spring compressors if you dont have them already and plan on tackling the job yourself.
Cheers |
| Mechknight73 |
Posted - 14 Sep 2012 : 5:24:42 PM
As for the stub axle, you don't have to necessarily remove the whole side assembly to get at it. The strut, which holds both the front shock absorber and the front spring unbolts from the stub axle, as does the steering arm. When you cat that piece out, you can then replace the stub, and bolt on the new disc rotor, brake caliper and reconnect the steering arm. It's unavoidable, but you will need a wheel alignment after this, but at least you will have it mobile.
While you're at it, check the other stub axle. If one bearing seized, there's a good chance the other one might not be far behind. Even if the bearing is in good condition, repack it with fresh grease anyway. That way you'll know it's good and won't have to worry about it for a while |
| Mechknight73 |
Posted - 14 Sep 2012 : 5:19:30 PM
If an engine misfires under load the problem is usually ignition. Your spark plugs will often tell the story if there's a serious fault.
Oily plug: broken piston ring
"Greasy" plug (smells of fuel) No ignition
Sooty plug: running too rich
Rusty plug: head gasket problems concerning that cylinder
Also, check all the vacuum leads. Any you can find in the engine bay, and while the car is idling, see if you can hear a persistent hissing noise inside the car, sort of like someone sucking air through a thin straw. Poor vacuum can sometimes cause engines to run rough, and EFI engines of every make, model and strip are sensitive to it. |
| karessofdeath |
Posted - 14 Sep 2012 : 07:29:01 AM
it seems all the thread and housing for bearing oon the axle stubs ****ed so i have to buy the whole thing as its on whole piece is there a way i can just take out the stub instead of the whole suspention and that? |
| karessofdeath |
Posted - 13 Sep 2012 : 12:53:37 PM
the orange light does come off when i start the car thanks for solving that lol feel like such a noob -.- Uhmm when its in idle it does how to put it... splutter every 4-7 seconds? also theres water coming out of th exhaust a friend reckons just water condensation.. It mainly seems to stall when i put in reverse. uhmm ive come across a new problem guy and this ones got me stumped the wheel bearings gone in the front drivers i was driving along and the steering wheel started doing its own thing anyways i pulled over and smoke was coming out the front wheel the problem is i cant get the bearings out as it has seemed to have welded itself on the shaft and i cant get it off for the life of me plz help --Carless -___- |
| Mechknight73 |
Posted - 08 Sep 2012 : 09:59:26 AM
Does it idle smoothly? That little orange light, shaped like an engine, is meant to come up whenever there's either a fault the engine computer has picked up (usually something like a dud sensor) or when there's a major fault. The only reason why it comes up when you first turn on the ignition is because it's sensing no charge from the alternator and no oil pressure from the oil pump. If it goes out when the engine fires, that's normal.
As to the stalling, will it rev if you have it in park? When it stalls in drive, does it just die, or does it cough and fart and stumble before it does? This will help us narrow it down as to what it is. |
| VNSVLE |
Posted - 07 Sep 2012 : 7:35:54 PM
Is it the orange engine shaped light?? |
| karessofdeath |
Posted - 06 Sep 2012 : 07:35:54 AM
Started on fuel pump and the connection was loose :\ so shes away again however when i start then put into gear then go to put sum throttle sometimes it stalls and its auto any ideas anyone? Also the engine light is still on when i turn dash on but goes out when the car starts |
| karessofdeath |
Posted - 05 Sep 2012 : 11:04:08 AM
ok is there any easy way of syphoning fuel out tue tank?? LOL:
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| karessofdeath |
Posted - 05 Sep 2012 : 10:53:00 AM
I just bought a new pump 2day im pretty certain its the fuel pump cos i put a new filter on and tried to prime wind over a few times then went to take the fuel filter off and it was still dry as a bone i swapped relays till nothing so im about to install fuiel pump ill let you know how i get on vnsvle |
| VNSVLE |
Posted - 05 Sep 2012 : 01:50:34 AM
Very strange the engine check light is on but the codes are showing 12 - all good.
Usually the check light will only be lit if there is an active code.
Easiest way to check the relay is to swap it with one that you know works. I think the horn relay is the same.
If your horn works swap it with the fuel pump relay and see what happens. |
| karessofdeath |
Posted - 04 Sep 2012 : 1:32:16 PM
the engine check light is still on |
| VNSVLE |
Posted - 04 Sep 2012 : 1:21:29 PM
So is the engine check light still on or has it gone off now?? |
| karessofdeath |
Posted - 04 Sep 2012 : 11:45:25 AM
Just changed all spark leads no change siwtched fuel pump realy still no go about to purchase petrol pump anymore avenues it could possibbly be for i try fuel pump plz guys? |
| karessofdeath |
Posted - 03 Sep 2012 : 9:49:18 PM
ok so i just done spark leads one and 3 no spark but i know its the leads cos wen i swapped with the other leads had spark is this enough to make my engine not stsrt?? |
| karessofdeath |
Posted - 03 Sep 2012 : 8:12:01 PM
hey thanks guys ive tried the fault error code test and its coming up 12 everytime vnsvle and i cant hear any buzzing of the fuel pump how do i check the relay to see if its still alright? i changed fuel filter today no luck there its strange cos it will wind wind wind just wont start |
| VNSVLE |
Posted - 03 Sep 2012 : 08:05:58 AM
Head here buddy it should point you in the right direction - http://www.vncommodore.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=450
It will be a start anyway. Check out those codes and let us know how you go.
Cheers |
| Mechknight73 |
Posted - 02 Sep 2012 : 4:20:33 PM
The quickest way to check to see if you have any spark is to take one of the spark plug leads off the plug, stick a screwdriver in the end, and hang it near a piece of metal on the engine. If you see no spark at all, then start at the connectors to the coil packs, then spread out from there.
If you have spark, open the driver's door wide, then turn on the ignition, but don't crank the engine. Listen for the faint buzzing of the fuel pump. It should run for about 5-10 seconds, then stop. If you don't hear this, then start as the fuse and relay, then work your way back.
It could be a variety of things, but some of the guys here would bet on it being the coil packs. The series 1 and series 2 coil packs are different, and you will need both the mounting brackets from a series 2 and some wiring mods to make that fit. If you find that ignition is a problem, it would pay to have one you know that works, to install to see if that's the problem. |
