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| MrNutter |
Posted - 21 Sep 2012 : 7:18:22 PM
How do I go about replacing the welch plug on the side of the block directly above the starter motor? I'm in the process of doing the head gasket & have discovered that this plug is leaking, I figure it's best to fix it while I've got the head etc removed but I've never done a welch plug on anything so have no idea how to remove & replace. Do I need to rip the whole motor out? Access is....... difficult to say the least.
Thanks in advance for any input. |
| 5 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| VNSVLE |
Posted - 24 Sep 2012 : 10:11:39 PM
Did you replace with standard plugs or did you go brass or stainless??
Also did you use any retaining compound on them when you installed them?? |
| MrNutter |
Posted - 23 Sep 2012 : 2:43:30 PM
Thanks again Mechknight73. Me & a mate went at it last night & did the lot (including behind the trans) so hopefully it's right now. Took it for a good run this morning & everything seems good so I'll dump the coolant I put in it yesterday, give it all a flush & put new coolant back in it this arvo. |
| Mechknight73 |
Posted - 23 Sep 2012 : 09:06:22 AM
Better off getting all of them while you have the chance. Early in the VN line, they did have a recall for welch plugs. The one behind the transmission should theoretically be ok, as it would have been done earlier. No harm in checking though. Another one, is cheach around your timing cover. My timing cover sprung a leak a bit more suddenly than expected. Corrosion ata away at it from the inside, and blew a 5c piece sized hole just below the bottom radiator hose. This car has loyalty to me, as it could have chosen to blow it out anywhere on the Nullarbor, but chose to leave it until I could afford to fix it.
If the water in your radiator looks more like rust than a healthy green, then this is how the rot started. You're supposed to change coolant about every 12-18 months, depending on the type, and how many miles you do per year. When it starts to look like someone peed in it, it means it no longer is effective in either inhibiting corrosion or assisting in the cooling process. |
| MrNutter |
Posted - 22 Sep 2012 : 6:25:46 PM
Thanks Mechknight73, sounds like it's going to be a plick of a job. I might as well just drop the trans & do the whole lot while I'm at it then. |
| Mechknight73 |
Posted - 22 Sep 2012 : 2:31:58 PM
Yes, the starter motor and the exhaust manifold have to be removed to get at that welch plug, but removing and installing them is fairly easy. Things to remember:
1. If you have the option between cheap steel and expensive stainless steel welch plugs, go for the latter unless you have absolutely no other option
2. check wevery other welch plug, cooling system witting, the water pump and just about every other part of the cooling system. If one of them is leaking, there's a good chance you might find others.
3. Double check all replacements to ensure they are the right fit.
I know there are several methods to remove and install welch plugs but the method I was taught, was to hammer them with something like a drift or a large bolt, on an angle. Sort of like opening an old fashioned glass Vegemite jar in reverse. As you hammer one side, the other side willcome up, thereby releasing it from the casting hole it plugs |
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