| Author |
 Topic  |
|
| |
Current Topic Rating:  | Join the Forum to Rate this Topic at: www.VNCommodore.com Support Forums
|
|
|
Mr Persistant
P Plater
72 Posts
 |
 Posted - 19 Feb 2010 : 7:30:10 PM
|
I did a search here for "roof lining" but came up with nothing.
My roof lining is falling down, pretty much only the bit directly above the driver. I think the action of the sunvisor whacking up and down has been the culprit.
Ónly the very thin outer material seems to be falling down. The thick, felt insulation itself appears to be still firmly attached to the roof. Does that make my problem smaller?
I know this is a common problem, but for the life of me can't remember what the fix is supposed to be. 
Is there a quick option to stick that little spot back up, or do I have to go the whole hog and reglue the whole thing?
|
|
Report to Moderator |
|
|
VNSVLE
Forum Moderator
1316 Posts
|
Posted - 20 Feb 2010 : 09:09:53 AM
|
| Doesn't look pretty but thumb tacks work as a temporary measure :) |
What's the difference between understeer and oversteer?
Understeer is when the driver is scared.
Oversteer is when the passenger is scared. |
Report to Moderator  |
|
|
Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
|
Posted - 20 Feb 2010 : 11:16:05 AM
|
| You have to remember that the roof lining is made up of 3 components: a cardboard base, foam rubber padding on top of that, and a cloth cover. You might get away with peeling back the fabric, but it will make a mess. The roof lining is hanging down because the cloth is no longer stuck to the foam rubber. If you peel back the cloth, there will be an "avalanche" of foam rubber particles. If you want to do that, scrape any loose particles away from the section you want to reglue. Although any upholstery shop that does cars can do the whole thing, fully reconditioned for $250 or less, depending on which shop you use. Just remember to get more than one quote before you commit to it. |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
Mr Persistant
P Plater
72 Posts
|
Posted - 20 Feb 2010 : 1:35:40 PM
|
Thnaks. I googled up a thread that said the same thing.
You're right, it's the disintegrating foam that is the problem. I'm so not in the mood for a complete redo like that right now.  Might just do something temporary until/IF I take the whole thing out. No way am I paying someone $250 to do a job as simple as this - that's crazy talk!  |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
|
Posted - 21 Feb 2010 : 12:15:24 PM
|
| If you're any good at craft work, you could easily do it yourself. Just buy the foam rubber and cloth, a can or two of spray glue and go for it. I'm a believer in what I call "production line" reconditioning; buy a part to be reconditioned, then fit it at your leisure, or buy a s/h replacemant part to fit while reconditioning the original. |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
Mr Persistant
P Plater
72 Posts
|
Posted - 21 Feb 2010 : 10:04:59 PM
|
That's a pretty good idea, Mechknight. I'm sure I can do it. Just not right now. Got a paper clip pinning it in the middle of the saggy bit for now.  Hopefully, it will stay exactly like that for some time.
In the meantime, I'll try not to look at the interesting, 10 year old or so Jap and Euro cars for sale online.  Bet they don't have to reglue their damn headliners. Yes, I know they have their problems too.  Please forgive me this momentary spiritual lapse.  The VN owes me too much effort and money to get rid of now, on principle.  And it IS dead reliable and equally ecconomical as all those others I lust for.
It's just the flesh is weak, and sometimes I crave for M O R E power, smoothness, quietness, handling, economy... Maybe I just need a new direct injected VE?  |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
|
Posted - 21 Feb 2010 : 11:59:14 PM
|
Actually, Jap cars of a decade in age have some WORSE problems than the VN did at even now. All kinds of trim bits falling off, and the roof linins sagged much earlier than they do on yours. Mitsubishi seems to be the worst offender for that.
If you want more smoothness and power, go raid a VS, fit it with headers and a supercharger, and fiddle with the cam and heads, and you have a weapon. My "engine bench" when I rebuild my HZ Kingswood with a VN-VP V6 will be the original sedan crossmember from the HZ (it's going to be a one tonner) It's a huge step up from the original 202 and three on the tree, but the plan is to take my time. |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
dhosky
P Plater
48 Posts
|
Posted - 22 Feb 2010 : 01:16:47 AM
|
| or do what I did pull the cloth off take of the foam with a scrubbing brush and paimt the remainig board black or whatever I was going to recover it but never seem to get back to it |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
Mr Persistant
P Plater
72 Posts
|
Posted - 22 Feb 2010 : 8:59:41 PM
|
That HZ sounds like a nice mix of old and new, Mechknight. You've got more enthusiasm for me. I'm into simplicity now, and for me that means stock std cars.
And Dhosky, don't tempt me.  No, seriously, I couldn't do that. The rest is in excellent condition in every respect. |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
|
Posted - 22 Feb 2010 : 11:38:39 PM
|
| This car has been very loyal to me, and with older cars comes less design rules you have to comply to. Even a V6 without a catalytic converter already far surpasses the emissions standards it has to comply to. They are also simpler to work on, as there is far less stuff to get in your way. With the present 6-cylinder, I could sit in the engine bay and work on it if I wanted to. Even with the V6 installed, I would still have a huge amount of room. This is an engine bay that can take a big block 454 without any cutting needed. I will need this simplicity, as what I have in mind for stuff to be installed will be complex. |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
Mr Persistant
P Plater
72 Posts
|
Posted - 11 Mar 2010 : 10:59:08 PM
|
This is nit picking, I know, but I'd like to be legally allowed to not run a catalytic convertor, or at least hollow mine out. Why?? Not for performance. It's because the stock one i bought from Repco for some $200 lasted barely 12-24 months before half the internal honeycomb became dislodged, cracked, and started making an awful noise rattling around at idle. As in getting the evil eye from police at RBT stops. I dislike people suspecting the mechanical integrity of the VN based soley on its age. 
Seems like the packing used to hold the honeycomb in place inside the cat body can not handle high rpm blasts from the exhaust manifold. Been taking it easier ever since then purely because of this. Who the hell can afford to replace cats this frequently just because the packing can't hold the honeycomb in place? 
Anyone else had this problem? Are there better cats around that can handle frequent high rpm blasts without getting their guts blasted out? This is the std one, so it has a bolt up flange, which is really great for easy replacing or simply taking it off to see how things are going inside there if you suspect a problem.
It was basically the REAR half of the honeycomb, if I recall that dislodged. Remember thinking it might be a pressure wave coming BACK from the first muffler when you snap it open to WFO up to rev limiter.
There is a front and a rear section in there in the cat. The other half was still secure. I tried to wedge the dislodged section in place using a kind of wedge made out of steel, but it came loose after not too long. Buggered if I know of a way to secure it in there. In the end, I simply reached in there with a small tyre lever, cracked the otherwise intact and functioning honeycomb section into pieces by levering around, and shook the pieces out.
So, now I technically only run HALF the cat internals - NOT BY INTENTION OR DESIRE. Shhhhh!!!! Don't tell anyone.
'Specially not any authority figures. Officially, I will deny any and all knowledge that my car is fitted with only half a cat and insist on suing the seller of said defective cat...or whoever the hell it was that fitted it, whose name escapes me right now.
I simply strenuously object to buying ANOTHER $200++ cat to replace the nice shiny stainless steel one I bought not so long ago. What do you do about this? I'm quite sure there's not masses of fuel getting down there and burning it up. Like I tried to say, the honeycomb itself is fine, it's the packing securing it that has failed. It's like some asbestos matting wrapped around the honeycomb, wedging it in between it and the stainless steel body.
I've heard OUTRAGEOUS prices and frequencies regarding late model V8 BMWs for instance...spending thousands on a set of cats after very little miles. Cats seem a problematic and expensive issue. I'm not even worried about flow or backpressure. It's just about something not falling apart. I don't do burnouts and really am not some major league hoon at all. It should be able to handle what I gave it. |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
prissylizzy
Starting in the driveway
1 Posts
 |
Posted - 18 Apr 2010 : 12:36:12 PM
|
| I recently had mine done by AA Motor Trimming at Granville. I was going to have a crack at it myself but they did the whole job in an hour or two for $180 cash. Not really worth stuffing around at that price. |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
|
Posted - 21 Apr 2010 : 10:34:30 PM
|
To replace one of these yourself, is a simple bolt on and off seal job. Unseize the bolts, remove them. Put the gaskets in place, liberally apply manifold sealant to both sides of the gasket and tighten up. There's one called Maniseal. It sets like ceramic. If you paint the bolts with anti-seize, when it comes time to change it, you only have to undo the bolts, and give it a tap to remove the old cat.
When I was working at the roadhouse, I saw firsthand what a clogged cat does to an engine. It will run smoothly, but will have a mysterious lack of power. You can smash the honeycomb and make it free flow, it just doesn't comply to emissions standards at the end of the pipe. |
| Report to Moderator |
|
| |
Topic |
|
Topic Locked
