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mouce
National Driver
1525 Posts
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 Posted - 05 Nov 2005 : 10:50:15 PM
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I'm doing a build in the boot (now that it's FINALLY watertight), I'm going to build boxes for the subs, I've got the sizes all worked out right, I just need to be able to find the ports for the boxes. Anyone know where I can get them from?
Also, since there are going to be two nice amps in there as well, what brand RCA's are worth getting. I mean I COULD go and get the cheapest ones (about $2 for 2m) but I don't feel like being aurally raped every time I turn the system on. I want something that's going to sound pretty good.
Also, I'd be interested to hear any opinions on the use of capacitors (for/against) in moderate setups:
2 amps (probably fusion FE-504),
2x 10" subs
1x 12" sub
1pr 6"x9"
1pr 4" splits
JVC headunit (KD-G615)
JVC stacker (CH-X1500)
I'm not going for SPL records, I just want something that's going to be better sounding than my stock head unit with stock speakers up front and 6x9 in the back.
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mouce
National Driver
1525 Posts
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Posted - 07 Nov 2005 : 3:45:48 PM
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| I know that people are reading it. Surely someone out there can give me some advice. This is my first full install and I wanna get it right, so...help me out. Please. |
Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006) |
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No Longer Member
deleted
8 Posts
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Posted - 15 Nov 2005 : 12:29:02 PM
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Ports are available from Jaycar electronics www.jaycar.com.au or go to one of their stores.
RCA leads -- Its probably better to use something a bit better than cheapos. The biggest problem with running audio cables from the front of the car to the back is the interference that they pick up on the way to your amps. The first thing to do, and you may already know this is to run all the audio cables on one side and power cables on the other side. The second thing is to use either properly shielded RCA cables which shields interference or using twisted pair which cancels out interference. Then there is quality of the cables and thickness. The more you pay, the better they're gonna be, but there is no need to go overboard. I use Jaycars 5mt twisted (twisted pair) and am happy with the quality.
with 3 subs and the rest of the gear, i'm guessing that you may need a capacitor to keep the voltage level up near the amps.
any particular reason for wanting 3 subs, 2 x 10's and 1 x 12? i would use 2, either 2 x 12" for deeper bass or 2 x 10" if you listen to faster beats (ie double kick drums (metal etc.)).
If you are going to get better 6x9's, don't, you are better off using 6inch speakers since you are going to have the subs. you may get more bass running 6x9s as well but you may get some bad cancellations at certain frequencies as the subs and 6x9s will be playing some of the same frequencies leading to muddy bass. This can also be fixed by using the cross-over in the headunit to control the cross-over points so the frequencies don't overlap too much.
If you can, get yourself a pair of VS door/speaker pods and get 6inch co-axials or splits for the front. It will give you much better mids.
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mouce
National Driver
1525 Posts
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Posted - 15 Nov 2005 : 1:26:40 PM
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The RCA leads will be run down the middle of the car (since I have some of the wiring loom on each side of the car), so that's taken care of. I'll check out the Jaycar stock while I'm port hunting.
The voltage at the amps isn't going to be a problem, if need be I'm just going to throw a second battery in the boot.
Okay, my reasoning for the three subs, I do listen to a bit of metal so the tens give a much better response. And the 12 is to make the bass just that little bit more solid.
I'm sort of stuck with the 6x9's unfortunately, because the clown who owned the car before me cut them into the parcel shelf. So unless I can track down an uncut BROWN parcel shelf for a VN I'm left with two fkn huge holes there. I know they aren't the best for sound quality but it looks like I'm going to be stuck with them. I'll tune them in as best I can and hope they come up alright.
The 4" splits are going to end up in the dash, the idea of this install is to do the whole thing with no holes drilled. Since I plan on selling the car in about 6-12 months time, I'm just going to move all the sound gear to the next car (whatever it turns out to be).
Thanks for the advice. I knew that people were checking it out, it's nice to finally get some feedback. |
Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006) |
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No Longer Member
deleted
8 Posts
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Posted - 16 Nov 2005 : 10:41:21 AM
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If you are going to put a battery in the boot, you will need to get your alternator re-worked to pump out more current. Running all that audio gear and charging two batteries... the alternator isn't going to cut it, especially if you listen to loud music alot.
A Cap will cost about the same if not less than another battery, and will handle the quick dips in voltage from bass beats a lot better than a battery will. |
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mouce
National Driver
1525 Posts
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Posted - 22 Nov 2005 : 9:42:14 PM
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If a second battery goes in, it's going to be wired up through a full dual battery setup. The engine battery gets priority then the secondary battery. Trust me that won't be a problem. I've installed enough of those to be able to get it right.
You've almost got me sold on the cap though. How many farads would I need to be looking at? I was thinking maybe one for each amp (remember one will be driving the subs all on its own and I don't want the main speakers affected by a power drop in a heavy bass song). So based on that would I be best of getting 2x1F caps or forking out a fortune for a single 2F cap? |
Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006) |
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No Longer Member
deleted
8 Posts
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Posted - 24 Nov 2005 : 9:37:25 PM
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looking at the power of the amps you are going to use, i think that a 1 Farad is all that is necessary. A 1 Farad cap can handle up to 1000watts of max power which traslates to about 500watts RMS, depending on how much they bull**** the max rating on an amp.
Anyways, you can start with 1 and see how it goes and add a second later as a 2 farad capacitor is going to give you exactly the same capacity as 2 x 1 farad caps wired in parallel. |
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mouce
National Driver
1525 Posts
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Posted - 24 Nov 2005 : 10:22:16 PM
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What I was thinking with the 2x1F caps is that I could have one on each amp instead of having them wired up in parallel. I know that having a 2F cap is of course going to be pretty damned good. But I want to have the power supplies for the two amps splitting from the Battery, rather than have a splitter in the boot. Which means that 2 lengths of 4ga cable are making their way to my boot, having a capacitor on the end of each one of those might not be the worst thing in the world.
I've just gotta get the amps in there and test them out to see how much the lights dim when I crank it up! Well...first things first I've gotta get the amps/speakers. I picked up the 4" splits today. They're heavy bastards compared to what's in there now. Each one has a 20oz magnet on it. That's a lot of metal. |
Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006) |
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