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leebo
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495 Posts
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 Posted - 08 Mar 2009 : 5:45:20 PM
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Guys as I'm sure you all have the same problem my Tail light leak water inside. It's a very very annoying problem which has always happened with my car and from what I've seen a lot of other VN's as well.
I'm sick of seeing the water inside the lamps it looks ****ty and cheap.
The only reason it has bugged me so badly is because i just spent $200 on buying clear ones to look goo and now they are faded, cloudy and will start to grow mold inside soon.
I can't get them off to easy anymore as i have already siliconed them in.
i put silicon on between the lamp and the gasket and between the gasket and the body and in that hole at the top and around the edges once installed.
Does anyone know where the F-ing water is still coming in?
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I'll show you the Rick James cell. It's superfreaky!. |
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trizo
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3091 Posts
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Posted - 09 Mar 2009 : 12:31:37 PM
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its condensation m8 ,, nearly impossible to stop  |
3 can keep a secret if 2 are dead |
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leebo
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495 Posts
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Posted - 09 Mar 2009 : 12:40:02 PM
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si is there water actually flowing in. The cloudiness in condensation i know that but the actual water sitting in the bottom edges is the annoying part if it builds up it will touch the light bulb and short the fuse.
The reverse light and indicator don't have this problem as they are separate to the brake and taillights. |
I'll show you the Rick James cell. It's superfreaky!. |
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trizo
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3091 Posts
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Posted - 09 Mar 2009 : 6:46:51 PM
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| you have said you have siliconed them up??? the water can only be coming i around the nuts on the back of the lens cover! the water also has a tendancy to run through the wiring into the light cover itself!!! As I have said not alot you can do with out sealing up the entire casing and surrounding wire! |
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leebo
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495 Posts
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Posted - 09 Mar 2009 : 6:50:48 PM
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| how does the water run along the wires or into the nuts on the back when they are inside the boot.? |
I'll show you the Rick James cell. It's superfreaky!. |
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trizo
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3091 Posts
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Posted - 09 Mar 2009 : 6:55:54 PM
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| the boot seal is not all its cracked up to be ... get my drift or I need to go into detail? |
3 can keep a secret if 2 are dead |
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leebo
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495 Posts
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Posted - 09 Mar 2009 : 7:30:37 PM
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| i get it now , that's gay as though it looks so crap and is more notable with my clear lights. |
I'll show you the Rick James cell. It's superfreaky!. |
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trizo
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3091 Posts
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Posted - 09 Mar 2009 : 8:17:18 PM
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| mouce did a write up on how to fully seal your leaky boot..... I'll c if I can find the thread! |
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trizo
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3091 Posts
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Posted - 09 Mar 2009 : 8:19:44 PM
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Damn Im good or should I say FIGJAM 
here is the thread:
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Edited by - trizo on 09 Mar 2009 8:20:55 PM |
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leebo
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495 Posts
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Posted - 09 Mar 2009 : 8:21:48 PM
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| thanks for the effort Trizo it's oe i really need but the hyperlink didn't take me anywhere sorry. |
I'll show you the Rick James cell. It's superfreaky!. |
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trizo
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3091 Posts
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Posted - 09 Mar 2009 : 8:22:05 PM
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NOTE: Pictures of the locations of each of the leaks will be posted in the near future.
This has already been posted in another thread, but given how notorious our dear little cars are for having a massive boot leak I thought that I should create a thread just on this guide, it was as though Holden wanted us to have a water feature built into the boot.
Well...My boot is much more waterproof (although not perfect yet) than what it was when I started fixing it up a while back now. Without actually seeing where the water is pooling I can't really make much of a comment on where your leak may be. Here's a few suggestions:
1) Spoiler bolt holes: if your ride has a spoiler on it, these holes are notorious for letting water in. Just unbolt the spoiler and run some silicone based sealant around each bolt hold before bolting it back down.
2) Tail lights: the 'foam' seal between the lens assembly and the body compresses to the point of being useless. It becomes hard and brittle and doesn't seal properly any more. Solution is to unbolt the light assemblies and run a bead of silicone around it before bolting it back on.
3) Boot lid rubber: It is very easy for little rust holes to form out of sight under the boot lid rubber. Easy enough to check, just grab a section and lift if away from the panel (don't remove the whole thing at once, it's a bitch to get back on that way. ). If there are any small holes, rub it back with a wire brush or some fine sand paper, treat the rust, paint it up and put the seal back on.
4) Fuel filler lid: The screws used to hold the hinge assembly onto the body of the car were NEVER sealed properly (despite what Holden say a small piece of stiff rubber doesn't work). Unscrew them, more silicone in the holes and screw them back up.
5) Plastic panels at base of D-pillar: These are just held into the base of the D-pillar by two crappy plastic posts with a little bit of silicone based glue. Solution: get a screwdriver, wrap the blade in insulation tape so as not to scratch the paintwork, and gently (VERY gently) prize them away from the bodywork. Guess what...More Silicone. Don't forget to peel the old stuff away otherwise they don't sit properly.
6) Boot lock: The barrel itself is not watertight against the body. There isn't much that can be done other than run some silicone over the inside of the boot lid around where the lock is located. Thankfully bugger all water actually gets in here. In my opinion don't bother with trying to fix this one, it's a non-event.
Those were the easiest ones to fix, however there are another three posibilities that I've found (with one more maybe), these are a bitch to fix but are the most probable.
7&8) The bottom/uprights of the rear window seal. God this one sucked, along the bottom of the window (top and bottom of the bottom seal), get a tube of clear silicone sealant, cut the smallest hole possible in the tip of the nozzle and run a continuous bead from one side to the other (under the seal of course). The uprights are a bit more of a hassle, I managed to peel the window seal away from the window so that I could treat a few rust holes (same as in 3) and run yet another bead of silicone down there (one long bead) and then managed to get the window seal back in. The side window seal can come out (albeit gently), getting it back in properly took me the best part of 15 minutes with a flat-wide blade screwdriver just popping each section back in.
9) Rear side windows (between C and D pillar): The foam seal used to keep these watertight has the same problem as the seal on the boot lights. This job was possibly the worst I've ever had to do on any car. Each window took me approximately 2 hours to do, though I am getting quicker. The tute for this is at the bottom (under number 10) as it's MASSIVE.
10) This one's only a maybe and I'm going to pull mine apart this weekend: the window seal on the top edge of the rear window. IF this were to be leaking it would be possible for the water to flow down the D-pillar and drop into the boot. I've tested this theory and now it's time to see if it's holds any water.
Hope you've got some spare time. Triangular window removal
* Remove the strip below the window by gently knocking it forwards to disengage the metal clips holding in in place.
* Remove the back seat.
* Remove the rear parcel shelf.
* Remove the seat belt 'pully' on the C-pillar.
* Remove the rubber strip from around the door frame
* Remove the three screws holding the window to the C-pillar
WARNING:These next steps will see you break something 9 times out of 10. The other 1 out of 10 you will shatter something. This is unavoidable due to the nature of the cars construction. If you're lucky a little bit of superglue can mend it so that your average passenger will not notice.
* Using a long flat blade screwdriver start at the bottom of the plastic shroud around the inside of the window and locate the first 'clip' going up the C-pillar.
* Gently ease this away from the body of the car.
* Find the second clip on the C-pillar, ease this away from the car
* Move along the top of this shroud to find another 'clip' near the rear window, ease this away from the car (SNAP!!! )
N.B. You do not actually have to remove this shroud, just prizing these clips out a little is enough to continue working.
If by some chance you're still working and haven't given up in disgust grab yourself a nice little 8mm open end/ring spanner and along the top (slanted) edge of the side window you should see (or feel) three nuts. Undo each of these completely.
*Once all three nuts are off, the window should come off, with a little coaxing.
You'll quickly see the foam seal has been compressed and a bead of silicone sealant over the top of it and around all the bolts solves that problem. With the window off however I took the chance to run a bead along the underside of the strip that makes up the roof gutter so that no water would actually fall on the window seal. Just some extra insurance.
Putting the window back in is easy as long as you've got thin fingers. Otherwise getting the nuts back on those bolts is a bitch of a job (careful not to drop them, because they can become irretrievable if they fall in the wrong spot). Also, do not over tighten those nuts as they are just a crappy plastic.
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trizo
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leebo
Fully Licenced
495 Posts
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Posted - 10 Mar 2009 : 3:01:45 PM
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Thanks man that was real helpful to me it sounds like it could be either of 2,3 or 7 that could be probllems for me.
Water sometimes doesn't comply with the laws or gravity and runs upside down in things the sneaky **** lol.
I will do a bit of process of elimination on these mostly causes of the problem.
thanks again Trizo |
I'll show you the Rick James cell. It's superfreaky!. |
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trizo
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3091 Posts
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Posted - 10 Mar 2009 : 6:49:32 PM
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| nps m8 (thanks dave for fixing that link) |
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