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troutcatcher
P Plater
18 Posts
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 Posted - 07 Jun 2010 : 06:28:33 AM
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Hi I am new to this site and I have a series1VN in my jet boat. that is causing me greif. In the 80 hours it has been in the boat I have replaced the coil pack and igniter, and 4 crank sensors. I am getting a 12volt reading across two the terminals of the sensor plug which is causing the sensor to overheat. It is fine when i start out in the morning but if I stop and try to restart I have pour water on it to make it go. Not very satisfactory in a boat
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Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
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Posted - 07 Jun 2010 : 4:54:19 PM
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I don't know whether you have a manual or not, but there's a slight chance it has something to do with how the sensor is installed. Bear in mind that I've never taken out a crank angle sensor, and am quoting word for word what it says in the manual:
1. Fit the balancer onto the crankshaft, stopping when the interrupter vanes just begine to enter the sensor slots. Loosen the sensor clamp bolt and slide the sensor in and out as required, so the interrupter ring vanes will enter the air gaps.
2. Finish fitting the balancer. Rotate the balancer so an interruptor ring vane fills the air gap.
3. insert a .5mm feeler gauge between the outer interruptor ring vane and the sensor magnet.
4. gently press the sensor against the feeler gauge and tighten the sensor clamp bolt.
5 remove the balancer and fit the sensor shield.
Thereafter, it's normal for most engines. It may have something to do with that gap, it may not. I can't seem to get a straight answer from the manual about normal voltages, but someone else here might know off the top of their heads |
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troutcatcher
P Plater
18 Posts
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Posted - 07 Jun 2010 : 6:44:24 PM
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| I have two manuals and downloaded alot of info from the net, and all the other sensor plugs give the voltages and the terminals that they should be. Nowhere is there any info on cas or voltages as it is only a hall effect switch. I have a brass feeler gauge for re setting the clearance. It is just that I dont a VN car or any mates with one we could test the voltages. A scanner wont help as it will only tell you if the sensor is faulty not about the volage it is getting. |
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Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
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Posted - 07 Jun 2010 : 6:55:31 PM
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| The only Kiwi member I know of that frequently contributes here is a guy by the user name of Lemusa. Not sure what part of NZ he's in, but you never know. Have you checked the harness? Again, not something I've gone indepth with, but is it possible something was rigged up wrong? As the standard output from any car battery is about 12-14 volts, it stands to reason that there's supposed to be a resistor somewhere on the way to the crank angle sensor. What that resistor takes the form of, I have no idea |
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troutcatcher
P Plater
18 Posts
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Posted - 08 Jun 2010 : 5:20:51 PM
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| I live in Christchurch in the South Island , but do not know Lemusa. I have undone all the harnesses and checked for chaffing or cracking and have found none. Today I tested the voltages with the alternator unpluged and I seem to be getting the readings I want. Now to find an error in the alternator wiring or the Ign light. Last thing to strip out and check is the dash wiring. Will keep you informed. |
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Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
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Posted - 11 Jun 2010 : 5:49:08 PM
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| Has the V6 done this from day one. or is it a recent thing? If it was from day one, you could definitely point to something and say "this was wired wrong." if it's a recent phenomenon, meaning the engine ran normally in the boat once, then that's a lot harder. It requires a lot more detective work to find it. Things to look for: deformed insulation, evidence of arcing, and carbon on wiring. Usually EFI harnesses don't chafe internally, the problem is usually on the outside of the bundle of wires. |
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