| Author |
 Topic  |
|
| |
Current Topic Rating:  | Join the Forum to Rate this Topic at: www.VNCommodore.com Support Forums
|
|
|
aj2burrows
P Plater
63 Posts
 |
 Posted - 05 Oct 2006 : 11:51:24 AM
|
I have a 90 vn commodore and i was just wondering what kind of fuel consumption i shout expect? Also does anyone now of anyways to lower fuel consumption??????
Also does anyone have some VN calais seats front and back. Leather or cloth.
|
|
Report to Moderator |
|
|
mouce
National Driver
1525 Posts
|
Posted - 05 Oct 2006 : 1:14:29 PM
|
I can't speak for EVERYONE with a VN out there, but I know my manual (V6) does fairly well on fuel (depending on how I drive it)...
Around town I get an average of about 11L/100km, I can get it much lower (9.8L/100km), but it's not as much fun ;)
Out on the open road I can regularly hit 7.5L/100km.
It's quite safe to assume that an auto will use upto 1L/100km more than the manual.
Keep in mind that I run a 98RON fuel at all times, and have found that it's actually cheaper to do so than use standard ULP. If possible stay away from fuels containing Ethanol.
As for how to get better fuel figures from your car there's quite a few things you can do:
1) Clean your throttle body, a clean t/b will give a smoother idle, which will mean that the engine uses less fuel at idle, and if you're anything like me you spend a lot of time stuck at lights: http://www.vncommodore.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=394
2) Tyre pressures. Holden recommend 28psi, this gives a really nice ride and makes it damn hard to spin the wheels. I recommend 32-36psi. The ride is not a lot firmer, but you will use less fuel, the tyres will last longer, but be careful in the wet, the harder the tyre is the less traction you have. Mine are at 34 at the moment and it's all good.
3) Lights. Unless you are required BY LAW to run your low-beam lights during the day, don't. The extra strain on the electrical system uses a noticable amount of fuel. If you're really obsessed with having DLR's for some reason, get yourself a good quality set of forward facing WHITE LED lamps and use them.
4) The air-conditioner. Useful for defogging windows, and when cruising on the open road. Around town there's nothing that will use more fuel than the a/c. When the a/c is being used the engine needs a fair bit more fuel to keep it all happy, especially at idle. When you're cruising at 100kph, or even a steady 80kph by all means have it going, but when you're stuck at lights...nuh.
5) Oils ain't oils. Use a good quality oil in the engine...sounds stupid I know, but the quality of the engine oil can affect your fuel consumption. I (and a few other people on the forum) use either Penrite HPR15 or Penrite HPR30, there's a few who use the Castrol GTX range. I will say though...unless you've had your engine rebuilt recently, stay away from magnatec, I don't know anyone who gets good results when using it in their VN.
6) Air-filter. A paper panel filter does filter the air, that's true. However a good quality washable panel filter (such as K&N or unifilter) will help. And for the sake of $50 at your local holden parts department you can get a VS V6 supercharged CAI (cold air intake), hook that into the airbox and you're onto a winner. For the best of the best, go for the CAI running into a custom made box which houses a pod filter, it's a bit of stuffing around, but well worth it.
7) Weight. No...I'm not having a go at you here...I'm talking about any extra crap you carry in your car. Most people keep their car clutter free, but every now and then there's someone who just collects 'junk' in their boot. If you don't really need it, don't carry it.
8) Sound system. This is a bit more of a difficult one, because it's not like you're going to take out your subs/amps just to save fuel (god knows I wouldn't). But there's no point having your subs bouncing away if you're listening to the footy or the cricket. A simple switch can be used to cut the power to the amp which drives the subs (place the switch in the 'remote' lead for the amp, not the power lead). This is the same idea as the lights, don't run them if you don't need them.
9) Windows. There's nothing that screws up the aerodynamics of a vehicle like opening a window. At any speed below 60kph (ie, stuck in traffic or tootling through suburban streets) it's not so much of a big issue, but anything above 60kph and you're best off with the windows closed.
10) Vacuum. Nope...not the hoover type the gauge type. http://www.vncommodore.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=481 Learn how to use a vac gauge while you're driving and you'll be amazed at how much fuel you can save. If I drive by the vac gauge (and the tacho) I can regularly see 10L/100km around town.
11) O2 sensor. The oxygen sensor is located in the top of the passenger side exhaust manifold (have a look down past the big black air pipe and you'll see something that looks kinda like the top of a spark plug in the exhaust). This should be replaced every few years. It's responsible for telling the engine how much more fuel it needs to inject. As they die they cause the engine to run rich, not only is this not great for fuel consumption, it also causes your exhaust do die early. They normally cost about $70 from places like repco.
12) Fuel filter. If the fuel filter gets blocked enough, it can cause problems. In extreme cases it can even cause fuel leaks (as one member found out). It's located on the driver side chassis rail down near the fuel tank. Most people forget to change them regularly because, out-of-sight, out-of-mind.
I'm sure there's more stuff that I could come up with, but that should be enough to get you started.
BTW: Welcome to the club. |
Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006) |
Report to Moderator  |
|
|
Stimpy
P Plater
21 Posts
|
Posted - 05 Oct 2006 : 7:32:57 PM
|
Welcome to the club
on the open road the best i got was around abouts 8 litres per hundred kilometers!! travelling down to esperance. i was sitting on 120 and was just cruising the whole way!!. around town it sits at around 9.5-11. towing the caravan i even manage to get 15 litres to the hundred. the fuel consumption shot up to 20 litres to the hundred once, looked at my caravan and found the brakes had stuck on!!!. no wonder the temp guage was a bit warm!!!. just remember that a thousand things can make ur fuel consumption go lower or higher. the way u drive it,the speed, the weather, the type of road you drive on, the condition your engine etc etc. thats one of the reason i love me car- i fill it up every fortnight- provided i dont go anywhere on weekends and it lasts that long |
id rather sleep with an old hen than pullet |
Edited by - Stimpy on 05 Oct 2006 7:35:53 PM |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
trizo
Forum Moderator
3091 Posts
|
Posted - 05 Oct 2006 : 9:16:05 PM
|
yeah mate those figures u should pull with any vn that nicely tuned and seviced and yes wen i say tuned i mean the stok motor mine is a 88 vn with a auto and mine get about the same as mouce with a manual (not a real mouse -:P i mean mouce!!hehe)but hey like already stated they all vary depending on the way u drive is the biggest 1 !;P
|
3 can keep a secret if 2 are dead |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
mouce
National Driver
1525 Posts
|
Posted - 05 Oct 2006 : 9:43:22 PM
|
The type of fuel you use has a big impact on it too. I don't know why, but some engines run much smoother on 98RON fuel, and others won't run on anything other than 91RON. Try out all the different types of fuel on offer from the MAJOR fuel providers and see which one suits your car the best.
And as for speed, I don't know why but my car gets its best fuel ecconomy at about 130-140kph, pity that it's not legal in Victoria. |
Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006) |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
trizo
Forum Moderator
3091 Posts
|
Posted - 05 Oct 2006 : 10:15:29 PM
|
| @mouce Idont know wat the hellier u call petrol over there but we only gots premo b.p or premo.shell,star,caltex wat ever u want to callem but the star premo (witch is the best of the best)and yeah most injected cars will use less feul and rud awsome at a high speed (unless u got ur boot stuk 2 the pedal)steady always win the race but a man with the vac gauge as I'm sure u have would make the biggest difference wise 4 the fact u can actually c wat and how u drivin!ect. ect.... |
3 can keep a secret if 2 are dead |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
mouce
National Driver
1525 Posts
|
Posted - 05 Oct 2006 : 10:49:58 PM
|
| Yep...the vau gauge was the best fuel saving measure I ever put in to the car...saves me heaps. Not bad for a $20 gauge ;) |
Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006) |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
aadamsvn19
P Plater
92 Posts
|
Posted - 07 Oct 2006 : 4:29:30 PM
|
i only got a 40L tank so i dont get far with that to start
and a external 044 fuel pump sucking that out of the tank into the charger
ive never done liters to kms before i dont care
i want the power ill pay for the fuel
doesnt help with a heavy foot too |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
aj2burrows
P Plater
63 Posts
|
Posted - 09 Oct 2006 : 11:51:12 AM
|
| Hey can someone explain to an idiot like myself how the vac gauge works and how it saves fuel? |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
mouce
National Driver
1525 Posts
|
Posted - 09 Oct 2006 : 3:38:50 PM
|
The vac gauge gives you an indication of the throttle position on a naturally aspirated engine. With a practiced eye it can also give you some idea of when you're in a gear that's too low or too high, and when you're using too much throttle to get moving.
http://www.vncommodore.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=481 |
Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006) |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
aj2burrows
P Plater
63 Posts
|
Posted - 09 Oct 2006 : 5:55:52 PM
|
Do you have any other gauges that you recommend to put in??? Where did you mount your vac gauge?
 |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
mouce
National Driver
1525 Posts
|
Posted - 09 Oct 2006 : 7:09:26 PM
|
http://www.vncommodore.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=425
Check out the third picture down. I have two on the right and one on the left (under the main cluster, see those white shiney things). From left to right I have Vac, Volts, Amps.
As for the gauges that I'd recommend, it depends on what you do with your car.
For starters I'd recommend a Vac (or boost if you run forced induction) gauge and either a voltmeter or an ammeter.
If you drive your car hard regularly then I'd add either (or both) an oil pressure or an oil temperature gauge.
If you have a nice big sound system then I'd say make sure you have both voltmeter and an ammeter.
If you do a lot of towing and you drive an auto I'd find out about getting a temp gauge for your auto tranny.
If you drive an auto and have a SERIOUS ego problem, then there's nothing like a 5" monster tacho with a shift-light set to about 3000rpm so that it flashes on EVERY change ;)
http://www.vncommodore.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=407
Keep in mind that mechanical gauges for fluid pressure or temperature are illegal for use in cabin. They can legally be used when mounted on the bonnet, but bonnet mounted gauges are VERY hard to position legally. |
Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006) |
| Report to Moderator |
|
| |
Topic |
|
Topic Locked
