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Cartrite
P Plater
73 Posts
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 Posted - 04 May 2011 : 10:48:19 AM
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Hi guys,just wondering if anyone has run into the Auto. taking a long time to engage drive from a standing start?,it has just started on my Brothers Wagon and the fluid level is OK. TIA
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Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
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Posted - 04 May 2011 : 6:53:49 PM
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There's a few that I know of that cause this. The simplest one is lack of fluid. Sometimes when an auto has been "run low" it will damage the bands, screw up the valve body and generally shorten the service life. What colour is the transmission? Is it a healthy cherry red, or closer to looking like sump oil? Sometimes blockages in the valve body can make an auto do horrible things.
Is it showing any other symptoms? Shuddering, rough shifting, or slipping between gears? This can help narrow down the problem, if at all possible. |
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Cartrite
P Plater
73 Posts
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Posted - 04 May 2011 : 9:06:40 PM
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| Thanks for reply,no everything else seems OK,Reverse is OK,Fluid seems clear and is full,just a delay when selecting Drive.I've been told to change filter then do a double fluid change,if delay is still there it will need a new Valve body but not sure if its worth spending money on.TIA |
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VNGRPA
Fully Licenced
426 Posts
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Posted - 04 May 2011 : 11:17:13 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Mechknight73
There's a few that I know of that cause this. The simplest one is lack of fluid. Sometimes when an auto has been "run low" it will damage the bands, screw up the valve body and generally shorten the service life. What colour is the transmission? Is it a healthy cherry red, or closer to looking like sump oil? Sometimes blockages in the valve body can make an auto do horrible things.
Is it showing any other symptoms? Shuddering, rough shifting, or slipping between gears? This can help narrow down the problem, if at all possible.
Shuddering, this might sound like a stupid question but then again i have always had manual vn's bar 1 witch was a powerglide auto, i prity much know nothing on autos ,but what would cause the shuddering in a auto ,i have a v8 soarer that shudders every now and then. |
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Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
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Posted - 05 May 2011 : 1:23:17 PM
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| I suspect that would have something to do with oil flow if it does it intermittently. If it did it all the time, it usually means the bands that make up the "gears" of an auto are shot. Does it do it under load, or just at random times? Sometimes it will make a difference when the oil is cold, warm, overheated, and what you're doing at the time. |
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VNGRPA
Fully Licenced
426 Posts
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Posted - 05 May 2011 : 5:18:35 PM
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| it does it at random times mostly when i reverse and at u turns ,i was thinking it could be the driveshaft if the teeth are worn maybe its slipping witch makes it shudder ,i will have a look at the temp when it does it |
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Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
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Posted - 05 May 2011 : 8:50:11 PM
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Unless the Soarers have some kind of "variable" driveshaft,if it were the problem, the shuddering would be constant under load. The faster you go, the worse the shuddering until it becomes a vibration. I'm no expert at automatics, but I'm inclined to think it has something to do with the valve body.
There is only one other thing that comes to mind; I'm not familiar with the setup Soarers have in their autos, there may be an electronic or vacuum cause. Check every wire to and from the gearbox, and if there are any vacuum leads going to the auto, check them too. Knowing Toyota, they don't like simple when it comes to anything with electronics hanging off it. Then again, an import specialist might know the answer off the top of his head.
No harm in asking a Toyota dealer, they tend to be helpful in basic problems. Remember, this car is essentially a Lexus SC400 with the "real" badges, which means it comes under Toyota's customer care. A Lexus will be "piggybacked" by Toyota dealers, therefore they should have the answers. |
Edited by - Mechknight73 on 05 May 2011 8:53:06 PM |
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VNGRPA
Fully Licenced
426 Posts
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Posted - 05 May 2011 : 9:08:30 PM
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| yer true, thanks for your help dam jap cars |
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Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
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Posted - 06 May 2011 : 1:51:40 PM
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| Toyota's engineering seems to be split down the middle. On one side are some truly brilliant ideas, on the other, you wonder what they were smoking |
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VNGRPA
Fully Licenced
426 Posts
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Posted - 06 May 2011 : 6:46:53 PM
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| hahaha yer i somtimes think that when i pop the bonnet |
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Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
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Posted - 08 May 2011 : 5:59:09 PM
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| Still, they've got nothing on French engineering for weird lol |
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new2vn
P Plater
23 Posts
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Posted - 28 May 2011 : 9:43:31 PM
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Hi Guys,
My 1991 VN V6 Auto has recently started shuddering in the trans too.
Original trans - 230,000k on it.
Shifts in all the right places, should too after the truckload of cash the old man I bought it off had spent on it. I am 3rd owner from new, regular servicing, no thrashing.
No leaks, but sometimes the stick shows a fluid level drop of 3-4mm every 3 months or so.
I top it up with maybe 50mls max and the shuddering declines somewhat, power on is smoother too.
Lately it shudders when cold, under load, in 1st, 2nd, 3rd not noticable in 4th.
Only does it for 1 or 2 kms then stops when warm.
Bought it second hand from a grandpa, has not been serviced since 2007.
No oil, plugs, filters, nothing done, but very few Ks since last service.
The trans fluid is clean, no residue, discolouration, looks like red honey.
I know the engine oil should go due to age and exposure to air, Ks or not and I should do the right thing by it and do a full service (I am scared what fault codes will come up...)
Reckon I should have the trans serviced?
What does a legit trans service involve and cost on a VN?
I just don't know about this "power-flush" idea where they pump 400 litres of trans fluid through your trans, call it serviced and charge you for all the fluid, sounds like a rip to me.
I thought it was more like the old HZ Trimatic - drop the sump, tighten the bands, fill er up etc.
Is this stock V6 trans a good box to start with?
Is it up to the job for a stock vehicle/daily driver?
I know when I built up my old Nissan, 7 gearboxes later I reached the informed conclusion that the stock boxes (even rebuilt and upgraded) were not up to the task, I do not wish to go through that again with this VN. That Nissan needed a tractor gearbox to cope with the torque I extracted from a 1.5 litre A series engine, it twisted rear leaf springs!
Any ideas guys?
Cheers, Ben. |
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Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
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Posted - 30 May 2011 : 10:18:05 AM
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Having recently had my auto serviced the proper way (stock V6) it cost me $180, but that was also to change the rear mainshaft seal where the tailshaft attaches. A proper service, from a legit auto trans specialist will cost between $150-$200. The best thing is to ask them specifically what happens in a regular service, and see if they're cagey with the answer.
The TH700 is an adequate auto, but if you did anything really wild to the engine, the "weapon of choice" in transmissions is the Borg-Warner T5 manual. If looked after, a TH700 will serve you well. Thrash them and you will pay for it. |
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thedunga
P Plater
90 Posts
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Posted - 30 May 2011 : 1:10:52 PM
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new2vn i had a similar prob with 2 different cars, 1 vl centre bearing rubber was shot, 2 vn a weight had come off the tail shaft. hope this helps.
catrite with the missus also drivine commo's she had one that did the same and i tried everything including trans treatment and it didnt improve and eventually it was cactus so another box may be on the cards. |
Save a dim sim fry tyres instead. |
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new2vn
P Plater
23 Posts
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Posted - 04 Jun 2011 : 8:41:59 PM
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Thanks for the input guys,
After driving it a bit further I have come to the conclusion that the shudder or "Vibration" that I am experiencing only occurs noticeably under load either during acceleration, or deceleration, hence the 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear shudder and not noticeable when cruising in 4th @ 60km/h. Trans operating temperature is not a factor either, have ruled that one out.
I was coming down a long large hill the other day @ 80ks and dropped the auto back to 3rd to use the engine for braking (because let's face it, the stock 6cyl brakes are at best average, 2 good stabs and they are faded and stinking, to be fair - I do have the original unslotted wheels and hubcaps on, so there is ZERO brake ventilation) I noticed the same shudder under deceleration in 3rd, the trans is not under much load at this point, it is just coasting, but the vibration was bad.
Everything that is supposed to spin in circles is spinning in eccentric (egg-shaped) circles.
The penny dropped - I have seen this before, it is probably the tail shaft.
I have not even jacked this car up since I bought it, so I am expecting to see a weight missing from the shaft when I do. Or at least suspect an out of balance shaft. The Trans seems just fine, well looked after and unthrashed.
Does the VN tail shaft have a centre bearing?
Universal joints perhaps?
(I have had balance troubles with centre bearings in Nissan Bluebirds, a problem easily solved by installing a $20 Bbird wagon tail shaft from U-Pull-It and throwing the centre bearing 4 suburban blocks away. The Bluebird wagon had leaf springs instead of coil-overs in the rear and hence had a compatible bolt-in tail shaft with no centre bearing - easy fix, worked fine for years, but that's Nissan parts compatibility for you...)
Is there any truth to the old hose-clamp story?
This is where you put a large hose-clamp around the tail shaft where the weight used to be (once fallen off). Apparently, you leave this hose-clamp loose and somehow the clamp is supposed to "centre" itself and the screw/bolt head becomes the weight. The tail shaft then mysteriously "balances itself" and you tighten said clamp into place.
This sounds like a joke to me, heard of it being used on HK/T/Gs years ago.
I think it would only increase tail shaft imbalance.
Just another Holden drunken lounge-room myth I suppose...
I am used to straight 4s and 6s. Everything about this V6 seems harsh and imbalanced to me.
It has had a new balancer fitted, alternator, power steer pump, water pump, pretty much everything that spins in circles seems harsher than it should be.
Is that just this Buick V6? Because I have played with a 3L V6 from an old GT Capri, even with a very lumpy cam, that engine always ran far smoother than the VN V6.
Same with the Nissan VG30 from the 300zx, smooth as.
I have read up a lot on the Buick V6 and the most frequently used word back in the reviews and the 1988-1991 advertising was "Harsh" when judging this V6.
Any thoughts?
Cheers, Ben. |
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dryVN
Fully Licenced
228 Posts
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Posted - 05 Jun 2011 : 11:20:35 AM
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Yeah Mate harsh is a nice way to put it. Very normal to have an offbeat note and shudder through the car even just with a mild 2.5 system.
The tailshaft is two piece and has a centre bearing and uni's at the end's.
Check the the joints and if there not worn , mark the shaft's position then maybe undo and spin the shaft to a new location.
Go for a spin and try it in all positions till it feels right. Some one could have removed it previously and not put it back the same way.
Cheers |
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new2vn
P Plater
23 Posts
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Posted - 07 Jun 2011 : 5:33:57 PM
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Thanks mate, will try it out soon.
Cheers, Ben. |
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dirk diggler
P Plater
32 Posts
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Posted - 08 Aug 2011 : 7:23:03 PM
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| hear this one my auto stalls after starting then stalls in reverse and later on while doing 70kmh 1600rpm vibration is felt and going up hills gets worst so then i have to put into 3rd or second just to avoid the discomfort it really feels like if ive got square wheels or somethin i will change gearbox if i have too only when my second car is on the road thou |
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new2vn
P Plater
23 Posts
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Posted - 10 Aug 2011 : 12:54:19 AM
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Have a look at tailshaft balance and centre bearing mate, that will make your car feel like it has 50c pieces for wheels especially under load and at revs.
Simple fix to replace from U-Pull-It.
The stalling sounds like another issue. |
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