| Author |
 Topic  |
|
| |
Current Topic Rating:  | Join the Forum to Rate this Topic at: www.VNCommodore.com Support Forums
|
|
|
lovevncomms
Fully Licenced
125 Posts
 |
 Posted - 16 Aug 2010 : 7:45:05 PM
|
|
ok here goes was driving down street tonight when dash lights went dim and the ! lite up wtf does this mean please
|
|
Report to Moderator |
|
|
Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
|
Posted - 16 Aug 2010 : 9:54:22 PM
|
The ! light, was it a red one or an orange one? If it's the red one, it's to do with brakes. Handbrake or main brakes. One of the design faults of the VN-VS is the switch that turns on the handbrake warning light. If I were to slightly lean on my handbrake lever, I can set it off. So as to turn it off while driving, I pull my handbrake up one "tooth" on the ratchet. Enough to turn the light off, but not enough to engage the handbrake (I can't be buggered fixing it properly right now.)
If it's the orange one, it's shorthand for "ECM fault." If the ECM light stays on for more than 60 seconds, it means you have a suspect sensor. It's unlikely to stop the engine, but will mean a quick check of the main sensors.
The dash lights going dim can mean a few things: your dimmer switch is dodgy, the flexible circuit board behind your dash cluster is suss, or there's something funny going on with your alternator. There's probably a few more explanations, but am unsure as to what they might be |
Report to Moderator  |
|
|
lovevncomms
Fully Licenced
125 Posts
|
Posted - 16 Aug 2010 : 10:22:26 PM
|
| am thinkin the terminals are a bit dirty sorry i lied heck dirty prob the cause of it but yeah freaked me right out and it went <red> not orange ???? |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
|
Posted - 16 Aug 2010 : 11:03:03 PM
|
| Likely your handbrake warning light. Raise your handbrake lever by one tooth and see if it makes any difference |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
lovevncomms
Fully Licenced
125 Posts
|
Posted - 16 Aug 2010 : 11:17:38 PM
|
| cool will give that a go in the morning mate thanks for all ya help will give that damn terminal a good dose of hot water to dissolve all the crap aswell either way one of the 2 have to work ;) cheers for the help |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
|
Posted - 17 Aug 2010 : 5:17:06 PM
|
| No problem. I haven't fixed the switch on my handbrake lever because you have to take the console out to get at it. That's a big, messy, complicated job to get it out, because you have to take out parts right up to the surround on the centre dash, where the aircon controls are. I'd rather just live with the "pull it up one tooth" solution lol |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
lovevncomms
Fully Licenced
125 Posts
|
Posted - 18 Aug 2010 : 2:37:19 PM
|
| frig me it's getting worse brake drag and when the (!) comes on windscreen wipers jitter across the windscreen radio resets it's only just started happening wtf is going on has any one else had any probs similar |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
|
Posted - 18 Aug 2010 : 6:01:02 PM
|
I hope this doesn't sound like I'm calling you an idiot, but are you sure your battery terminals are tight? There are two things that spring to mind that might be causing this; well three in combination. 1. your battery isn't perfect 2. the voltage regulator on your alternator is knackered 3. there is some connection from the battery, likely the positive side of the harness, that's loose, corroded, or possibly even disconnected. If it's intermittent, I'd just about bet money on it being the voltage regulator. take out your alternator, bench it, and on the back, there's a square plastic module with a plug on it. remove it by undoing the two screws. If the brushes are shot (graphite bars attached to springs) that might be the end of it. I would have an auto sparky bench test your alternator. A recon alternator may be about $120- $150, a voltage regulator alone will be cheaper, but unsure how much cheaper. If you get the sparky to just change your voltage reg, make sure your bearings and windings inside it are ok. Otherwise, get some quotes, grab a recon and save yourself some aggro.
As for your brakes dragging, have al look under the car, and you'll see the handbrake cable going out to each rear wheel. Before it goes to the lever, you will see a thread and two nuts going up to the lever. You can adjust the hanbrake forward and back with those two nuts. |
Edited by - Mechknight73 on 18 Aug 2010 6:04:08 PM |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
lovevncomms
Fully Licenced
125 Posts
|
Posted - 19 Aug 2010 : 8:01:42 PM
|
| worked out part of the problem brake light looms dont like to be bathed in water bloody thing is corroded to ****ta have to get a new one and as for the brakes gonna throw some new pads front and rear and adjust the hand brake hopefully this will fix it once and for all but thanks heaps for all ya info mechknight will get front to back done by a sparky also just in case |
| Report to Moderator |
|
|
Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
|
Posted - 22 Aug 2010 : 11:45:32 PM
|
| It is possible for a brake caliper to "seize," not necessarily in an engine block sense, but enough to drag. You'll find out when you change the pads; if they put up more of a fight than usual to push the piston back into the caliper, you should have a closer look. nine times out of ten, it's rust or rust particles that's the problem. Spray them liberally with brake cleaner and see what you can find. |
| Report to Moderator |
|
| |
Topic |
|
Topic Locked
