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wombo
P Plater
32 Posts
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 Posted - 16 Mar 2007 : 01:08:18 AM
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hey guys i was just wondering wat use would think to be the best sound system for the vn (speakers head unit subs amps) cuz i dnt wana gt pushed into buying somthin tht is gona hit the spot if u no wat i meen those blokes at the car steareo places r bit dodgy somtimes..
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Edited by - trizo on 30 Jun 2007 9:49:02 PM |
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SWEET
Fully Licenced
600 Posts
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VNSVLE
Forum Moderator
1316 Posts
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Posted - 16 Mar 2007 : 5:59:24 PM
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I suppose it really depends on personal choice. Whether you are after big sound or sound quality or even both, what sort of music you listen to and budget i suppose. I mean i have had some weird and wonderful combinations over the years. At the moment i have just got a set of 4" 2way pioneers in the front, a set of 6" Boston Acoustic in the rear and a little 10" Kicker impulse sub running off a Alpine V12 amp. It is not the greatest but it does me for now....and a cheap clarion mp3 head unit.
Pioneer seems to have a pretty good name throughout their range. But then as Sweet said what you pay is what you get is usually right.
Figure out what sort of budget you have and work from there I suppose would be the best way to start.
Sorry if this doesn't answer your question but it gives you something to think about and maybe when you know how much you want to spend let us know and we cold probably help you out.
Oh and welcome to the club. |
What's the difference between understeer and oversteer?
Understeer is when the driver is scared.
Oversteer is when the passenger is scared. |
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trizo
Forum Moderator
3091 Posts
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Posted - 17 Mar 2007 : 12:30:30 AM
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| mouce is a good 1 for sound if u need 2 know something noise wise! :) |
3 can keep a secret if 2 are dead |
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vn_maniac_16
Fully Licenced
139 Posts
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Posted - 18 Mar 2007 : 8:30:41 PM
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| ive got 4inch pioneers in the front and to me they arnt loud enuf wihtout taking more from mi sony 6by9's in the back. try and get some 6's in the front if u can then high treble 6by9's in the rear and a sub! thats wat im upgrading to and will def be happy cause mi mates running that and sounds a good blend of treble and bass! |
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SWEET
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600 Posts
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vncommoboy
P Plater
17 Posts
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Posted - 19 Mar 2007 : 12:33:33 AM
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vn maniac has got it i have the same 6's in the front doors 6'9s in the tailgate they are running off a orion 600 watt 4 channel amp and that sounds good there is only a ****ty 5 year old head deck in now but in a couple of days i am getting a sony dvd player and screen in dash 2 head rest screens and a 12' 1000 watt sub so hopefully that will go better
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Butcha
P Plater
55 Posts
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Posted - 20 Mar 2007 : 10:35:35 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by SWEET
wellwat u pay is wat qualaty u get
I pretty much agree completley with this being an electronics engineer id say there is almost no limit to the power u can get although u have to set yourself a limit and know what u want |
VN COMMODORES JUST HAPPEN TO BE THE BEST CARS EVER |
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GrnMchne
P Plater
29 Posts
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Posted - 21 Mar 2007 : 3:26:46 PM
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| my entire system is pioneer, cost me lil bit under three grand, pics of it r in my car thread. my only advice is go for what you think is best for you and what you want. do some reserch into sound quality and what gives you the best bass/noise for the kind of music you listen to. and if you want it to look purdy then investigatethat as well. that way you wont end up with something that you arent happy with. google it. |
Sig Coming Soon |
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vn_maniac_16
Fully Licenced
139 Posts
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Posted - 21 Mar 2007 : 10:36:51 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by GrnMchne
my entire system is pioneer, cost me lil bit under three grand, pics of it r in my car thread. my only advice is go for what you think is best for you and what you want. do some reserch into sound quality and what gives you the best bass/noise for the kind of music you listen to. and if you want it to look purdy then investigatethat as well. that way you wont end up with something that you arent happy with. google it.
Thats what I do for any big purcahse i make, do the most possibly research on a product, get some non bist opinions! DO NOT let some JB or Strathfield guy talk you into buying something you know nothing or little about! - happened to my sister and she ended up paying for installation!! lol
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mouce
National Driver
1525 Posts
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Posted - 26 Mar 2007 : 9:14:15 PM
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Okay...there's a few golden rules for car audio, here's my list of golden rules.
1) Asking for advice is great, but don't buy it just because your mate says it sounds good. EVERYONE has different ears. What sounds good to your mate might sound like screaming poo in a wet paper bag to you. Before you buy ANYTHING, make sure that you listen to it, either in someone's car or at a car audio shop (No...Autobarn and Repco are NOT car audio shops, JB Hi-Fi doesn't really count either...as far as I'm concerned, Strathfield only just make the grade.) Find somewhere that stocks more than just Alpine, Pioneer, Sony and Clarion and start listening to a huge range of brands/speakers/head units/amps... You'd be amazed how much difference a bad amp can make to the system.
2) Power isn't really POWER. Very few subs that people buy that are sold as 1000W subs are really 1000W subs. Most subs (and sadly most audio equipment) is sold using the PEAK power output as quoted power figure. If you try to run 1000W through most 1000W subs out there all you'll end up with is a very smelly gooey mess that was once you're brand new sub. The power figures that really matter are the "Nominal Power" or "Watts RMS". These are the only true ways to compare different audio equipment. It's also the only true way to know that the amp you've got won't destroy your subs (if you're too lazy to tune it properly).
3) Different Music requires different systems. If I want to listen to serious 'gangsta' rap while I'm crusin' along then a couple of nice 12" subs or even a nicely setup 15" is going to be invaluable, a couple of 6.5" three ways in the front and 6" splits up front would be the best option (with two amps, one to drive the sub(s) and one to drive the sound stage speakers). But if I wanted to listen to some metal with some fast double bass kicks in there, a couple of 10" subs in a sealed enclosure would be the best option, helped along by 6.5" three ways in the rear, and either 5.25" or 4" splits up front. Work out what you listen to mostly, and work out how much you care about sound quality.
4) SQ or SPL? Make up your mind and go nuts. Sound Quality can still build systems loud enough to make your ears bleed, but at least they will sound good while they do it. SPL will shake mirrors nicely and keep your kidneys suitably massaged, and that's fine so long as you're happy being aurally raped every time you turn the music up.
5) Make sure it's all balanced. There's no point getting 4 subs and the biggest amps you can find to drive them if you're just going to run your sound stage from the head unit. Likewise there's no point going out and getting some of the best quality splits that money can buy for the soundstage and backing those with a ****ty little $50 sub from JB Hi-Fi. If you're going to have a couple of subs, make sure that you've got reasonable speakers driven by a suitable amp to keep it all running.
5a) Make sure it's all balanced (subs...). Subs get a lot of people into trouble, they will go out and get a sub, and get an amp and plug it all in and it sounds like a wet fart. To make the most out of your subs, you need to make sure that the subs are matched to the amp (and vice versa), and that the sub is housed in a suitable enclosure (no...those off-the-shelf boxes that you can buy don't count). This will mean, comparing the impedance and the WRMS power of the sub, with the corresponding impedance values and power outputs of the desired amp. Then you need to find out about the sub, some subs NEED to be in a sealed enclosure, some need to be in a vented one, some can do either. You will either need to pay someone to do it for you, or work out how to do it yourself (Bass Box Pro 6 is a GREAT program), but you'll need to build a custom box for your subs to get the most out of them.
6) Even great equipment will sound like crap if it isn't installed properly. If you don't know what you're doing, find someone who does. I've heard a lot of horror stories about places like JB and Strathfield 'killing' installations by doing a shoddy job. Speak to the guys at the car audio shop where you got the gear, they'll either be able to install it for you, or tell you where it can be done properly.
7) Capacitors aren't worth it. If you want one for looks then go ahead, but if you're having problems with your headlights dimming when you've got the system cranked then it's time to either upgrade your alternator or turn the tunes down.
8) Cables DO matter. Getting power from the battery to the boot is often one of the weakest points in any car sound fitout. 8Ga cable is just too thin for most installations (anything more than a 2ch amp to drive the rear speakers and you need to think again). 4Ga cable is where I'd start for a single amp capable of driving two subs comfortably. 4Ga would probabaly be able to take more than that, but I like to over-engineer power delivery systems so that I can upgrade hardware later without havin to worry about the power supply  I personally will be running a 2Ga cable from the engine bay to a deep-cycle battery in the boot, using a fully regulated dual battery system from Piranha, that will be running two generous amps, a computer (not a carputer, but a FULL desktop computer) and a few other bits and pieces. It's also essential that you run your RCA cables down the passenger side of the car, and your power cable down the drivers side. Well...that's the easiest way to do it, but so long as they aren't run down the same side you're safe, otherwise you'll end up with lots of alternator whine in your system. And, often overlooked is the earth cable, if there is a 4Ga cable running to the boot, then the earth cable from the amp to the body of the car should be 4Ga, and the earth cable from the body of the car to the negative battery terminal should be AT LEAST 4Ga.
9) You can't have enough fuses. It's not uncommon for amps to have fuses equivilant to 80A in them, or more...you need to add up all of the fuses in your amps. Write this number down, and now start looking for a fuse that's the same as that number (or 10A either side). This needs to be placed within 12" of the battery connection on the power cable. e.g. My Amp1 = 60A, my Amp2 = 80A, My inverter = 80A ... Therefore the fuse near the battery needs to be 40+60+80 = 180A (to allow for running a few lights and fans (to keep it all cool in there, I'll be fitting a 200A fuse).
FINALLY...
10) Tune your tunes. There will be instructions on how to tune your shiney new equipment in the box that it comes in, follow it. The basics are:
Turn everything off.
Turn the gain on the amp down to minimum
Turn the headunit to 3/4 Max volume (if the h/u goes up to 100, turn it to 75, if it goes to 50 turn it to 37)
Turn 'Loud' off, set any equalisers to 'flat'
Turn up the gain of the amp (start with the subs), until it JUST starts to distort, then turn it back down a smidge.
Do the same for the rear speakers
Do the same for the front speakers
If all you want is personal opinions, I can give you a few...Sony sucks, Pioneer are good, but they are overused, Alpine are starting to make some really good units worth looking at, Clarion aren't as good as they were 15 years ago, but their top end decks are well worth looking at, the Jaycar Response Subs and Amps are damn good budget systems, JVC have some really nice head units out there, and if you can find it some of the OLD Fusion amps are brilliant (even if they were a bit pricey). If you have a few grand to blow on a head unit alone...Nakamichi
Hope I've helped a bit. |
Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006) |
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InSaNe_InK
Fully Licenced
125 Posts
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Posted - 22 Apr 2007 : 02:07:33 AM
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| what do you all think about KENWOOD??? i never here anything about kenwood? |
Edited by - InSaNe_InK on 22 Apr 2007 02:08:26 AM |
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wombo
P Plater
32 Posts
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Posted - 30 May 2007 : 9:35:33 PM
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thanks for all that every one it really helped i decided to gt a pionear ipod ready head unit pionears 6 1/5 inch splits in the front poinear type r 6 1/2 inch splits in the back 2 600w poinear subs nd 2 poinear 600w amps the sound is loud nd crisp nd the bass kicks nice nd hard chears for the help ahain
peace out |
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wombo
P Plater
32 Posts
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Posted - 30 May 2007 : 9:37:09 PM
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| i meant alpine type r splits in the back hehe |
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